Unconcious Designing Part 1

Are you an Unconscious Designer?

First let me say, this blog may sound like criticism, but it is meant to be helpful.  So, now that I’ve explained my motivation, put any hurt feelings aside and let’s talk. And while this discussion relates primarily to bead embroidery designs, it can have application to other bead techniques. 

The most common design error I see with bead embroidered designs is a lack of proportion.  Good design concepts include PROPORTION AND BALANCE.

“Proportion is the relationship of two or more elements in a design and how they compare with one another. Proportion is said to be harmonious when a correct or desirable relationship exists between the elements with respect to size, color, quantity, degree, or setting. Good proportion adds harmony, symmetry, or balance among the parts of a design.”  From wikispaces.com

 Sure, you can bend the rules to achieve a shock with a design, but the pieces I see that violate this design concept aren’t trying to do that. 

There are two commonly seen errors:  One is a bead embroidered pendant type design that is hanging from a tiny strand of beads.  The other is when joining bead embroidered sections and using a tiny design for the connection point(s).  I totally understand that the construction may be sufficient such that the piece will not fall apart (strong thread, numerous stitches)  BUT…..

 it LOOKS like it will fall apart!

The only explanation I have for these designs is that the designer was so focused on the bead embroidered portion that the design as a whole wasn’t even looked at.  This is easy to do.  The fun part of the design is the bead embroidery and this is where the main focus is.  However, your design is not complete until the entire necklace/bracelet/earring is finished.  Other people will look at the design in its totality, not just a section of it.  If the proportion is off for these other parts of the design, then the whole design fails.  Sorry, it is just a fact.

So, if you think it doesn’t matter, take a picture of the design with that tiny strand of beads.  Now redo it and use AT LEAST a 6mm round (if not 8mm..) and take a picture. Don’t ask a beader (they can make the same error as you and look only at the bead embroidered section) instead ask your husband or some other non-beader friend which picture they like better.  They will always choose the redone version because the proportion of the piece is corrected.  And really, you can’t just show the piece to hubby and ask if he likes it; that’s like asking if you look fat in those jeans.  Unless they a person that never learns, he knows how he needs to answer. So, you need to make it safe for the person you are asking an opinion of… they can pick from two different pictures so no insult is implied. 

Getting compliments on your necklace or “likes” on facebook is not a good tool to evaluate your design.  People will give you compliments because they like you and you made it.  People want to encourage you.  Likes on facebook don’t explain whether the person likes the whole, or just part of it.

Good design is a fuzzy thing…. People have different tastes.  There can always be an aspect of something that speaks to someone’s unique experience creating a unique bond.  In other words, as my sister and I have observed “There is nothing so ugly that it won’t sell”.  But, there truly are rules for GOOD design and one of them is proportion.  Criticize your own work and try to be honest.  When you are finished, ask yourself if you have violated this fundamental principle.

Bead Embroidery Jewelry Projects Book

Bead Embroidery Jewelry Projects: Design and Construction, Ideas and Inspiration

http://www.amazon.com/Bead-Embroidery-Jewelry-Projects-Construction/dp/1454708158/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1373311883&sr=1-1&keywords=bead+embroidery+jewelry+projects

What’s it all about? 

I have a new bead embroidery book coming out with an official release date of Nov 1, 2013 and I see from the pre-orders on Amazon, it is doing pretty well.  So….. I thought it might be a good time to explain what this book is (and what it is not).

From an overall perspective,  I see this book as the final in a series, a trilogy, for bead embroidery.  The first is Beading with Cabochons (2005).  This book simply and gently takes you from “I’ve never done any of this technique” to a confident successful bead embroider.  Between the photos, illustration and text, you will be able to proceed with confidence and expand your understanding…..  Oh and by the way, probably become a bead embroidery addict!  You will want to keep this book in your library to refer to the numerous techniques for bezels, attachment methods and edges.

The second book in the trilogy is Dimensional Bead Embroidery (2011).  This book contains MANY techniques, not only new bezels, attachments and edges, but expands to include many surface stitches.  Again, it is a useful reference book you’ll want to refer to as you create your own designs. 

Although each of the above books contain projects, the lasting value is because of all of the techniques they have (and they don’t have duplicates).  I have observed that most bead embroidery is one-of-a-kind, in other words, most people who do bead embroidery are not primarily interested in doing a project from a book.  However, the value of the projects is still important because they show how to use the techniques, show the techniques in action so-to-speak.  

My philosophy is that techniques are the “tools” we use to create our designs and the more tools (techniques) that are available to us, the easier and more successful our designs can be.  This is the value of the first two books.  I have created an index that includes both books which you can download.   It shows a small photo of the technique and includes which book it is in and the page number.  I keep this printout right by me in the studio…. So I can easily see the options when I am creating a piece.  It helps me to keep my designs fresh and not just do the same thing all of the time!

http://www.studiojamie.com/images/Stitch_Index_by_Jamie_Cloud_Eakin.pdf

In order to fully and completely explain all of the techniques, there is very little room left in the book for projects or explain designing.  This is where the final book in the trilogy comes into play…..

So first let me say it is an unusual book because there is not a Basics section like you are used to seeing which explains beads, thread, tools, etc.  Nor will you find a section on how to do the stitches.  This is really a continuation of the previous books     AND     the stitches and techniques are fully explained in those  books, so…. Do you really need another section on how to do Backstitch? Instead, the Basics section relates to the basics of design and the basics of construction.  How to design, do’s and don’ts with construction, how to make templates for collars, etc.

Yes this is a book that contains over 30 projects.  AND they are fully explained projects so you can simply do them or you can easily use them to create your own interpretation.  What is different is that besides the projects, there is information on how that projects’ design was developed so you can easily develop your own unique designs.   The book begins with necklaces designated as “The One” (basically pendant designs) and proceeds to Totem designs, followed by “the Many”, then designing using a bead collections and also doing Asymmetrical designs.   After necklaces are chapters for earrings, pins and bracelets.  Each have a discussion of their unique design and construction issues.

What makes this book different is what you are learning.  Each project was selected to specifically teach a design process or something about construction methods.  Like my previous books there are many “TIPS” included.  But beyond tips, there are “Lessons” which are more full discussions, or steps and further explanations about the design or construction methodology. 

So, if you know how to do bead embroidery stitches, this takes the next step to using them in designing jewelry.  There is an index in back that shows the stitches but it really is a reference for understanding and communicating since many stitches have different names to different people.  I may use a stitch in a project and I may refer to is as one name, but you know it as another name; this index will help in that communication issue. (yes, I am anticipating the Amazon review that complains they don’t have enough information to do the stitches even though the intro and other areas SAY it doesn’t have that…. )

And it’s 160 pages.  (look at your other bead books, most are 128 pages… )

So, IT IS NOT FOR SOMEONE WHO HAS NEVER DONE BEAD EMBROIDERY AND DOESN’T KNOW THE STITCHES,

But…….

It is for anyone who knows basic stitches, both beginners and advanced bead embroiders.  This will be a resource for how to use those basic stitches to create jewelry designs.

 Even if you’ve been doing bead embroidery for a long time, there are valuable tips and techniques you’ll want to have….. Not to mention, it will be a great resource to expand your design possibilities and get you over a hump when you are having a creative block. 

Bead Therapy

You may not be surprised that beading is used by many organizations as part of therapy.  From promoting eye-hand coordination to mood stabilization and elevation, the magic of beading helps us.  ……And I DO self-medicate!

Why does beading affect us and our moods?  Well, really, who cares as long as it works!  I do however have a few theories.  The first relates to that old-tried-and-true advice to count to 10 before you speak when you are angry.  Simply counting provides a discipline and rhythm that calms us.  Extend this theory to beading, and then recognize how often you are counting as you bead and you can see how performing beadwork can have a calming effect.  It is difficult to count and concentrate and hold on to strong negative feelings.

Another theory I have relates to tension.  Good beadwork always has an aspect of the proper measured tension in it.  Some methods like free form peyote are best with a tight tension, while other stitches like right angle weave are more measured and firm and others want looseness.  Regardless of the stitch, it is US, the beader, who controls the tension.  Hey, wouldn’t you love to be able to control the tension in the rest of your life?  Beading provides us with a unique opportunity to do that.

Music is often recognized as being able to affect how people feel which brings me to another one of my theories.  Music has lyrics, melody and the rhythm.  While performing beadwork doesn’t have any lyrics, there is a poetry to the colors being used and an undeniable rhythm to performing the beading.  We can relax into the rhythm and enjoy the visual sensation of the colors.  Those who also knit or crochet will chime in here about the relaxing effect of the rhythm of those tasks.

Let’s not forget that beading also allows us to Play with our toys.  Looking at and stroking all those beads whether they are bright and shiny or matte and mysterious is fun.  We can imagine all the possibilities of what they can become, or just enjoy their current state.  The point here is that you can adjust your mood without even picking up a needle.  Simply “visit” your beads, enjoy their company (they never talk back, insult you or criticize you).  Touch them, stroke them, introduce them to other beads you have and you may even come up with a design you hadn’t thought of before.  Beads accept us, gotta luv em.

Another type of bead therapy is to create something to work through an issue you may have in your life.  One of my cats died in the middle of the night from a previously unknown heart defect.  Finding her in the morning was tragic and I was thrust totally unprepared into mourning.  I created this necklace to help me in the mourning process.  It is completely out of my comfort zone, I actually don’t like the skulls, eyeballs, and spikes stuff, but I had this bone skull pendant in my stash and it just felt right for my state of mind.  Yes, it had to be dark colors to work through my mood. I knew I may never wear it, but that wasn’t the point anyway.  I did wear it once, and fondly remembered my Dookie cat, but will not wear it again.  When I’m ready, I have someone in mind to give it to who enjoys this type of design.

This example is about working through a negative issue, but remember that beading can also be used to celebrate a wonderful event too.  Reward yourself for a promotion or other achievement.  Engage in the joy of a wedding by creating some jewelry for the wedding party. 

Along this line, I recommend Heidi Kummli’s new book The Spirit of Bead Embroidery.  This is excellent for showing how you can experiment beyond the beads, and end result… you can design a deeper meaning into your beadwork. 

http://www.amazon.com/Spirit-Bead-Embroidery-Heidi-Kummli/dp/0871164388/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1369766845&sr=1-1&keywords=the+spirit+of+bead+embroidery+by+heidi+kummli

As she says in her intro, “a feeling of healing peace and tranquility flows through me.  My spirit is at one with the universe and the beads.”  This is a wonderful goal.

Thread Talk

Last post, I talked about seed beads… so now it must be time to discuss thread!  The two essential beading materials (that end up in the final piece) are the beads, and the thread.  Both are important.

My favorite threads to recommend are Nymo and Silamide.  However, I only recommend Silamide on a spool, since I find the kinks with the ones wrapped on a card make it much more difficult to use.  I use both threads, and have an extensive array of colors.  I have tried the new Sono thread.. and I’ll admit I love it and love how it behaves and the grey/silver is an awesome color and very useful.  However, it is just too expensive for me to recommend.

I have many criteria I use to judge threads.

One is cost.  Until I win the lottery, I have a budget and I would rather spend my money on Beads!   Both Nymo and Silamide satisfy my frugality.  I can easily afford a wide array of colors in these threads.  The color of the thread used on a piece does matter, especially with transparent beads.  I’ll use a matching color, or a contrasting color depending on the effect I’m trying to achieve.   

Quality is important….  So, I want a thread that is tested.  My version of “tested” may be extreme but it is what I am comfortable with.  “Tested” means it has to have a long period of use, with no problems.  Long for me means at least 20 years.  Now you may argue with that, but when you spend MANY hours on a piece, you really don’t want it to fall apart after 10 years…. You actually think about them as heirloom jewelry.  So, it’s time to tell you Why I have this criteria. Years ago, a new thread was being sold… Kevlar.  The idea was, oh my, what a great beading thread, so strong it can stop bullets! (Yes, the same thread used to make bullet proof Kevlar vests…).  Sure makes sense right?  So I, along with many others paid the premium for this wonderful product.  The problem didn’t show up for a few years…. The problem was that material becomes brittle over time.  So, all those waving, swinging fringes fell apart as the brittle thread inside broke.  This was a horrifying, expensive lesson, and I’m thankful I only sent a few pieces that used this thread to galleries for sale.  And yes, they fell apart and came back.  Talk about embarrassing and a loss of respect at the galleries.  I won’t make that mistake again.  My recommended threads have been around and used successfully for decades. 

The thread needs to be easy to use.  This criteria needs some further explanation.  Any time you are learning, there is a learning curve.  One of the issues I have noticed in the decades of teaching beading to adults is that adults have a lower tolerance of the struggles of learning.  This isn’t really surprising since once you reach adulthood, you spend your life “knowing”.  Whether you are driving, cooking dinner, etc, you know what you are doing in a very fundamental way.  You’ll try new things, but for the most part, it is a variation of what you already know and you stay at your comfort level.  When you first start beading, however, you are a child again.  You have new materials, tools, and techniques…. A new world.  And often there are some struggles, not the least of which is threading that dang needle. 

So, you struggle with managing the thread, learning and executing techniques, and beat yourself up when you do it wrong.  Not everyone does this but too many do.  My advice… Relax. It will come.  Some beaders switch to a Fireline or similar type of thread since it doesn’t behave like the threads they were having problems with.  I advise against this.  These materials are plastics and coated wires. What happens to plastic over time? It drys out and crumbles. What happens to metals when bent and moved? It becomes brittle and breaks.  These new “threads” simply haven’t been around long enough for me to use them.  They don’t come in the wonderful variety of colors.  And, they are More expensive. 

So, take some time to learn the skills of using, for instance, Nymo.  It is less expensive, comes in a vast array of colors and is proven over time.  You can do it! And it’s worth it!  So here are some tips to try to help you when using these Nymo.

1. Try waxing it.  Don’t go too heavy, just gently wax and re-apply as needed.
2. If that doesn’t work for you, try Thread Heaven.  This is a conditioner to the thread that has an anti-static, repelling aspect.
3. Pay attention to which end you are threading.  So, as it comes off the spool, are you putting the needle on where you just cut? Or the other end?  All beaders have a slight twist when they are beading, and threads have a twist.  You may find your situation is solved by always threading at the cut end or the other end depending on your twist situation.
4. Be patient with yourself… you are learning a skill.
5. Don’t use lengths over 2 yards (if possible) when you are learning and perfecting your skills.

There was a time that using a flexible beading wire when stringing was an automatic dismissal for any beading competition because it was judged as an interior material not used by a serious artist.  This has definitely changed and it is acceptable (unless Tiger Tail was used which is a no-no).  However, there is a  difference in execution time and effort involved with stringing versus bead weaving.  So, go ahead and use these materials for stringing…. If there is a problem, it can easily be redone…. That can’t be said for a wide peyote weave bracelet or bead embroidered collar.

This is all “Just my opinion”.  What is great about the beading community is that it embraces all opinions and you can certainly do what you want.  Feel free to post your opposition to my opinion in the comments!

Seed Bead Cautions

I thought I’d take a moment for this week’s blog to talk about things to consider about seed beads.  First and foremost,  I LOVE ‘EM!  But some seed beads I avoid all together, and others I’m very careful about.  Seed beads are created from glass, but the colors that are available just can’t satisfy the appetites for all beaders… so manufacturers of seed beads “do things” to the glass to expand the colors and appearances of the beads.  This includes:

• Treating with dye to create a color.
• Applying a lining inside the hole.  This not only increases the available colors, but also creates a unique appearance.
• Coating the seed bead, either with a color or a metal.

What should occur to you is that this can create a danger when using these beads.  Coatings can wear off, dyes can fade, linings can wear off.   All of these things are true.  So, what can you do to protect your wonderful creations from downside risks?

First, KNOW what you are buying and using.  Some vendors very clearly label all their seed beads and note that there is a dye or coating.  The easiest ones to identify are the “lined” beads, they typically say “color lined” or “silver lined”.  There are many different metal coatings including “galvanized” or the new “dura coat”.  If you are unsure…. ASK!    Once you’ve determined that the beads are in any of these categories, be sure to keep that information with the beads if you decide to purchase them.

My advice:

Silver lined beads:  I avoid these altogether.  Yes, it really is silver that is used inside the hole.  Silver will tarnish.  I have pieces that I made years ago and were a bright shiny color at the time…. They are black beads now.  There is no way to clean inside those holes.  I did experiment however…. I took one and let it sit in a bath of pure bleach for 15 minutes.  This dissolved the silver, so it is just glass now.  I rinsed it REALLY well and let soak in clean water for an hour too.  I did this 2 years ago and the thread (I used Nymo) has held up to the bleach assault…. Crossing my fingers. 

If you use silver lined beads, be sure to store the beadwork in an air-tight container, and it’s best to include an anti-tarnish strip.  You may notice that you have some silver lined beads you bought years ago and still haven’t used and they are still beautiful… hey! They are in a sealed container!  Trust me, they will tarnish if you take them out of that container.

I took all silver lined beads in my stash and segregated them (why didn’t I just throw them away? Hmm can it be I’m obsessed with beads? ).  I have used them for a beaded snowflake pattern… because the final step in this project is to dip it into floor wax to stiffen the piece, this also seals the silver away from air.  I’m pleased to report that after 5 years they remain shiny and the floor wax shows no yellowing.  Other than this use, I avoid these beads like the plague (and the bugles are worse and tarnish faster). I don’t buy any more, and will only use in a circumstance like this.

Tip:  There is a new bead that mixes silver with glass and then coats the hole.  The description I’ve seen is a “shimmer” bead.  I have used these very successfully.  The appearance is not quite as glowing as a silver lined, but it’s close and it’s not dangerous.

Color lined beads:  Gosh, the variety of colors and appearance of these beads is sooo intriguing.  However, the thread or stringing material used with these beads can rub off the color inside.  So, I am careful about how I use these beads.  I love using these on the surface of bead embroidery but do not use in the necklace strand and am even cautious about using in fringe. 

Coatings:  Anyone who has been beading for a while has experienced a trauma with these beads (or know another beader who has).  Sometimes, the coating will even rub off in your hands as you are beading… you haven’t even finished it and it’s ruined.  Be careful using these beads.  Again, like color lined beads, be aware of where you are using them and what stresses they will be subjected to.  So, some parts of surface beadwork in bead embroidery will not create a problem, but obviously a peyote  bracelet using these beads will be a disaster.  And, it should be equally obvious, if it is coated with silver, well… it will tarnish (see above discussion of silver lined beads)

One exception:  There are new beads from Japan that are coated with metal and then coated with a protective coating over that!  That outer coating will prevent the silver from tarnishing.  The outer coating also protects the metal coating.  So, you can use these in areas that won’t have excessive rubbing that would rub off that coating.  Or, just know that the lifespan of the beadwork will be longer than without the coating but still limited.  (and they come in 15/0 too!)  I love using these with bead embroidery.

Dyed beads:  It would be great to be able to avoid these beads, but the result is that you simply will be limiting your color palette.  Dark Fuchsia?  It is dyed.   If the dye is coming off in your hands as you bead, you probably should stop and throw them away.  Typically this doesn’t happen though.  It is often as simple as adjusting your care and maintenance of the beadwork to avoid direct sunlight and store in a dark place (like your jewelry box which is not exactly a hardship).  But these pieces should not be stored on a wall, constantly exposed to light.  And of course, don’t leave them on the dashboard of your car….

Summing it up:

Know what you are buying.  Make a conscious decision about the use of these beads and Use Your Common Sense!

Evolution of a Beader

This blog is about the evolution of a beader and, as a group, how our behavior can be described.  While this is Not a scientific study (please, it’s BEADS, let’s not get TOO technical…), it is based on my personal observation over decades.  Those tiny (and big) glorious things with holes in them affect us but not always in the same way.  Some people evolve quickly through the stages.  Others seem to stay in one level.   Not everyone is the same and there no estimates or averages for the time spent at any given level;   individuality rules.       So….. Where are you in the evolution process? 

Stage 1:  CASUAL BEADER

This is the beginning stage where the magic of beads is introduced.  People in this stage experiment with some techniques, buy a book or two and may even take a few classes.  Bead purchases relate to the projects that are undertaken, in other words, beads are purchased as needed and there isn’t a real “stash” of beads.  Often, casual beaders buy kits, a self-contained package where the beads and instructions are all there so the time investment is controlled (often necessitated by life circumstances). This is the fun, exploratory stage where the wonders of the bead world are revealed.

Stage 2:  USER

In this stage, the appetite for learning techniques is increased as is the appetite for beads.  This is evidenced by the appearance of a bead stash.  The size of the stash is not critical and is often impacted by the level of disposable income, the key thing is that there is a stash.  More techniques are explored, more books are purchased, more classes are taken.  New friends are made of other people in the bead world, joined by the common interest in beading.  This is very helpful to more quickly and easily understand the terminology of the bead world: “how is that pronounced?”    “so that’s a top-drilled bead!”  “seed bead sizes? “

This stage is very fun, new techniques, new beads, new friends and the seeds of addiction are sown….

Stage 3:  ADDICT

Hello, My name is Jamie and I am a beadaholic.

There are many attributes for this stage, not all beaders have All of the symptoms, but they have more than a few.

• The bead stash grows.   No longer is a shoebox sufficient to hold those beauties.  Some addicts even need an entire room in the home, commonly referred to as “the studio”, the existence of which is envied by other addicts.  Decorating tips, storage tips give a whole new opportunity for “bead talk”.
• Purchases of beads are celebrated with other beaders, but often are hidden from family, a spouse and non-beading friends.  Not out of shame….but really, it gets tiresome to answer “So, what are you going to do with that?”. If a fellow beader asks that question, and you answer “I don’t know”, they will respond “COOL!” then they drool over the beads and ask “Where can I get some?”
• You can’t leave a bead store without a purchase .  The size of the purchase is often dictated by financial circumstances, however, the draw of the beads, (ooohhh that color) (oooohh that shape), (ooohh ETC!) is too strong to ignore totally.
• You used to buy jewelry to finish an outfit, now you buy the outfit to wear with the jewelry.
• Budgets are manipulated to accommodate bead related purchases… who Really needs to eat lunch when those new beads are beckoning?
• You spend more time with enablers.  Bead friends, bead clubs, blogs, online bead friends are all enablers that understand and applaud your position in this evolution of a beader, because they are there too! Ahhh, validation!

Stage 4: PUSHER

Come on….. you know who you are!   Bead vendors, authors, beading teachers, you all must admit you are in this stage.  Yes, you are often still an Addict, but you have gone beyond that to helping to create new addicts.  So, instead of spending the entire day at the local bead show mixing with the other addicts, you are now behind the counter, still spending all day there but now selling or demonstrating.  Very satisfying.

So where are you in the evolution process?  Be sure to take my survey (you already know where I am!)

Welcome to my blog!

I am new at this so I hope to get better as time goes by.  While I may not post daily, I am hoping to regularly post.  I started this blog because I love beads, beadwork, beading and especially Beaders!  It is remarkable and fun that this craft is enjoyed by so many people and there is so much sharing of ideas, opinions, and inspirations. This created a desire in me to jump into that pool... people who know me well know that I have no shortage of opinions!

I want to start by honoring all beaders.  Whether you create exclusively with beads or embellish other crafts with beads.... a Big Hello, fellow beader!  As a "seasoned" beader, I am interested in all types of beads, beadwork and information about beads.  I love the history of beads and eagerly read when I find articles about vintage, historic "finds" that include beads.  Ever since there have been people, there have been beads.  All cultures, diverse over periods of time and geography all have had beads. I find this remarkable and believe it speaks to something basic in our nature.  Almost all of those articles, books, etc talk about the beads themselves - the material used, the use of technologies available in that time, the bead shapes and how these all evolved.  What I want to emphatically point out to you is ....

if there was a bead
if there was beadwork
THEN THERE WAS A BEADER!  We are part of a legacy that is phenomenal! 

Give yourself a gracious bow or curtsy or gentle nod, you are a part of human history, I honor that.

I have sometimes heard people say "oh, I just string"..... Hey wait a minute...there is no "just" about it!  You are a beader like all of us and part of our wonderful community.  The act of creation is transforming, whether you are creating a strand or a massive woven/embroidered peice.  We all are creating and putting part of ourselves into it.  Of course what I love is jewelry so, in addition, I get to wear it or see others wear it.  Fun, satisfaction, economy, originality.....what could be better?

Beaders Rule!!!!