Thread Talk

Last post, I talked about seed beads… so now it must be time to discuss thread!  The two essential beading materials (that end up in the final piece) are the beads, and the thread.  Both are important.

My favorite threads to recommend are Nymo and Silamide.  However, I only recommend Silamide on a spool, since I find the kinks with the ones wrapped on a card make it much more difficult to use.  I use both threads, and have an extensive array of colors.  I have tried the new Sono thread.. and I’ll admit I love it and love how it behaves and the grey/silver is an awesome color and very useful.  However, it is just too expensive for me to recommend.

I have many criteria I use to judge threads.

One is cost.  Until I win the lottery, I have a budget and I would rather spend my money on Beads!   Both Nymo and Silamide satisfy my frugality.  I can easily afford a wide array of colors in these threads.  The color of the thread used on a piece does matter, especially with transparent beads.  I’ll use a matching color, or a contrasting color depending on the effect I’m trying to achieve.   

Quality is important….  So, I want a thread that is tested.  My version of “tested” may be extreme but it is what I am comfortable with.  “Tested” means it has to have a long period of use, with no problems.  Long for me means at least 20 years.  Now you may argue with that, but when you spend MANY hours on a piece, you really don’t want it to fall apart after 10 years…. You actually think about them as heirloom jewelry.  So, it’s time to tell you Why I have this criteria. Years ago, a new thread was being sold… Kevlar.  The idea was, oh my, what a great beading thread, so strong it can stop bullets! (Yes, the same thread used to make bullet proof Kevlar vests…).  Sure makes sense right?  So I, along with many others paid the premium for this wonderful product.  The problem didn’t show up for a few years…. The problem was that material becomes brittle over time.  So, all those waving, swinging fringes fell apart as the brittle thread inside broke.  This was a horrifying, expensive lesson, and I’m thankful I only sent a few pieces that used this thread to galleries for sale.  And yes, they fell apart and came back.  Talk about embarrassing and a loss of respect at the galleries.  I won’t make that mistake again.  My recommended threads have been around and used successfully for decades. 

The thread needs to be easy to use.  This criteria needs some further explanation.  Any time you are learning, there is a learning curve.  One of the issues I have noticed in the decades of teaching beading to adults is that adults have a lower tolerance of the struggles of learning.  This isn’t really surprising since once you reach adulthood, you spend your life “knowing”.  Whether you are driving, cooking dinner, etc, you know what you are doing in a very fundamental way.  You’ll try new things, but for the most part, it is a variation of what you already know and you stay at your comfort level.  When you first start beading, however, you are a child again.  You have new materials, tools, and techniques…. A new world.  And often there are some struggles, not the least of which is threading that dang needle. 

So, you struggle with managing the thread, learning and executing techniques, and beat yourself up when you do it wrong.  Not everyone does this but too many do.  My advice… Relax. It will come.  Some beaders switch to a Fireline or similar type of thread since it doesn’t behave like the threads they were having problems with.  I advise against this.  These materials are plastics and coated wires. What happens to plastic over time? It drys out and crumbles. What happens to metals when bent and moved? It becomes brittle and breaks.  These new “threads” simply haven’t been around long enough for me to use them.  They don’t come in the wonderful variety of colors.  And, they are More expensive. 

So, take some time to learn the skills of using, for instance, Nymo.  It is less expensive, comes in a vast array of colors and is proven over time.  You can do it! And it’s worth it!  So here are some tips to try to help you when using these Nymo.

1. Try waxing it.  Don’t go too heavy, just gently wax and re-apply as needed.
2. If that doesn’t work for you, try Thread Heaven.  This is a conditioner to the thread that has an anti-static, repelling aspect.
3. Pay attention to which end you are threading.  So, as it comes off the spool, are you putting the needle on where you just cut? Or the other end?  All beaders have a slight twist when they are beading, and threads have a twist.  You may find your situation is solved by always threading at the cut end or the other end depending on your twist situation.
4. Be patient with yourself… you are learning a skill.
5. Don’t use lengths over 2 yards (if possible) when you are learning and perfecting your skills.

There was a time that using a flexible beading wire when stringing was an automatic dismissal for any beading competition because it was judged as an interior material not used by a serious artist.  This has definitely changed and it is acceptable (unless Tiger Tail was used which is a no-no).  However, there is a  difference in execution time and effort involved with stringing versus bead weaving.  So, go ahead and use these materials for stringing…. If there is a problem, it can easily be redone…. That can’t be said for a wide peyote weave bracelet or bead embroidered collar.

This is all “Just my opinion”.  What is great about the beading community is that it embraces all opinions and you can certainly do what you want.  Feel free to post your opposition to my opinion in the comments!